Model Airplane Glue

Keep in mind when using CA glue:

• It's important to work in a well ventilated area when using CA as the fumes can literally knocked you down if you're not careful!
• The quick curing time of CA can be a double edged sword. Yes, nearly instant cure time is convenient, but it can also be a disaster if you make a mistake!
• CA glue forms a very strong bond, but it can become brittle over time unlike traditional wood glue.
• Typical CA will melt most  foam!

Thin CA has about the same viscosity of water which allows it to "wick" or soak deep into balsa wood for a strong bond. This is what most people use when framing up their model airplane kit. The balsa pieces are pinned to a plan, and a drop or two of CA is applied to each joint. Thin CA is also used with CA hinges for control surfaces.

Thick CA has a very thick viscosity. This is sometimes referred to as gap filler CA. This type of model airplane glue is good for joints where there may be small gaps between the wood. Thick CA forms a stronger bond than thin CA. It also takes longer to cure which gives you longer to position the pieces correctly before it cures.

Medium CA has a viscosity somewhere in between thick and thin. Sometimes the directions will specify this type of model airplane glue for special applications. I personally always keep a bottle of medium CA on hand because you can use it for just about any application if you're in a pinch. It's also great for quick repairs at the flying field.

CA applicator tips are very convenient "tips" that allow you to apply glue neatly in very tight places.

These applicators are really cheap and they do a good job of keeping you from applying too much glue, which saves you money in the long run. They also help prevent glue from getting on places where you don't want glue!

This is accomplished by the use of an aerosol can like the aerosol zip kicker above.

Or you can use a finger pump with a non-aerosol container like the zip kicker seen on the left.

Anyone that's built a model airplane has probably had their fingers glued together or glued to something else at one time or another. Ca debonder is very convenient to have around for those "sticky" situations.

CA debonder can also be used to separate pieces you have glued together by mistake if you apply the debonder quickly enough.

Debonder does have limitations. If you've used plenty of glued on a strong joint such as attaching the stab to the fuse, don't expect CA debonder to be of much help getting it apart after its cured...

Epoxy glue is basically used where an extremely strong bond is needed, or a place where you need plenty of time for tweaking the alignment before it cures.

There is 30 min epoxy glue and 5 min epoxy glue . The time designation is the working time, not the cure time. Be sure to allow at least 24 hours for the any type of epoxy glue to cure before flying!

Many times the canopies are nothing more than a bubble of plastic that is glued right to the covering of the fuselage.Canopy glue is clear when it cures so that you don't see the glue between the covering and the canopy.

At first glance, canopy glue seems a lot like regular Elmer's white glue. But canopy glue is more flexible when cured and is also water proof, unlike Elmer's glue.

Thread locker is not model airplane glue, but it's an important adhesive none-the-less.

Because of the vibrations associated with our glow engines, and even electric driven props, it is very important to use thread locker on critical bolts that you can't afford to have come loose.

Thread locker is used on engine mounting bolts, motor mounting bolts, landing gear bolts, and any other hardware that may vibrate loose.

Model cement is handy when building scale models with that require strategic placement of tiny plastic non-functioning parts.

If you've ever put together a small display model then you know first hand that this type of model airplane glue also has a strong odor and should be used only in well ventilated areas.

This stuff is absolutely great for repairing foam airplanes. The nose of my ParkZone T-28 completely broke off from the fuse when I drilled it into the ground. Now it's just as strong as ever after I glued it back with Gorrila glue. After a little touch up paint on the seem, you can't even tell it was crashed!